So it is pretty much like this. Exile rocks, I got my new board. I am going to give it a spin tonight.
Archive for the ‘Skimming’ Category
Skimming is amazing, I love it. I love the beach, I love anything to do with the beach, I will never leave you sweetheart. But with love comes respect. Recently I had been making trips down to The Wedge they have been going very well, because I had been spending so much time at The Wedge, I lost some of the respect for the power.
There is a place next to The Wedge, known as Cylinders. The place is epic shore break, notorious for large, very large shore break. Sounds good right? Technically it is, but it is even more dangerous than The Wedge. So, not thinking, I went out for a ride, the ride was going well until I caught a rail and fell, not a big deal. That was the biggest mistake of my life. I ended up getting caught in a 12 second swell of waves varying any where from 4-10 ft. The set lasted about 6 minute. The longest 6 minutes of my life.
Although the scare that this caused me that day, which was Monday, 24th. It has no way made me look at skimming any new way other than, don’t suck and it wont happen. But I have gained a new level of respect of the ocean.
This was the first picture of the un-touched board. It is so sexy!
This picture was taken after all of the pads and wax were place on it.
I sent this in as art to Exile Skimboards.
So I guess a word to the wise is, learn from my example, and respect the ocean. It can kill you if it wants to.